Once we were about 800 vertical feet above the flat glacier we lined up the sled pontoon and let it go! The east face of Mt. The next morning we did another load, and then started lowering the sled pontoon down the other side. Below us wandered endless carvings, olive green ribbons of water, as the plane dropped and rose.The Spires appeared as phantom shadows in a gray cloud, a softaquatint blurring steely edges. The rockfall left a blank section that would need to be re-established. We would sleep as much as possible, which was roughly 13 hours per day, and played a lot of cribbage. Janelle and I both knew it would be one of the hardest climbs on the Fifty Classic Climbs of North America list.

Charlie had just cleaned the pitch and was at the belay.

What's not good, is the weather. We swung out into the wind and cloud, a bit of orange and blue, as we approached an alabaster summit.We had five bivouacs during our ten days on the wall. Once at the base of the route we discovered the fixed lines were totally iced up from the storm. Results. Clouds play in and out changing the light, too good to close my eyes.I can hear Charlie stirring above. The dihedral gobbles up nuts, starts to lean and crosses a water course.

Seth Shaw and I had just ticked the second ascent of the venerable East Buttress (VI 5.9 A3; 3,300 feet) in grotesque conditions. The "classic" route on Middle Triple Peak has only seen five successful ascents. The "classic" route on Middle Triple Peak has only seen five successful ascents. We would wait for another day to push the route higher. . Bong crack filled with ice, chop it out in small pieces. I rationalized the decision to rap back down by stating even if we made it up the icy ropes the pitch above our high point would be all iced up.

Twid Turner Previous Next.

The ascents took place in 1977, 1982, 1991, 1992?, and, to my knowledge, the last successful ascent was in 1997.

Much like what happened on Half Dome last year. THE Middle Triple Peak, a piece of rock and ice, was unclimbed. We rappelled the route in a fantasy-like white-out, reaching the bergschrund on the first of July.Area: Kichatna Mountains, Southwestern Alaska Range.First Ascent: Middle Triple Peak, 8835 feet, via the west face, June 21 to July 1, 1976 (Russell McLean; Charles Porter).The monthly Cutting Edge podcast features in-depth interviews with the climbers who will be writing next year’s AAJ stories, just back from great new climbs. Hauling loads to the base of the wall, up slush to the bergschrund, postholing, get out of step somehow, twist about, get back into that rhythm, so important, that rhythm; back to the tent, last load.Mists close in, weather’s going cloudy, gotten colder, starting to snow, not serious, silent snow flowers; the world is a twenty-foot circle interrupted by the rhythm of paying out rope. . A few pitches higher, still snowing, still a twenty-foot periphery. Sharp had never been to the Spires before, and because of the cloud he had to use a topographic map to weave his way over ridges and around peaks; in the end we were on the Tatina Glacier. This freshly exposed rock was still very crumbly, so hooking was not a great option most of the time. Nasty weather kept us on the glacier another day and we flew out the following morning, back to the land of amazing smells, birds singing, green grass, and a shower. We located Nancy's bolts, and set up shop to climb a blank wall. Some time thereafter we were in “beautiful downtown Talkeetna” humping loads in a drizzle from the train station to the red hanger that would house us until the weather cleared over the Spires.I was awfully quiet on the flight in.

Keep it up! I am in awe of people like you. As soon as the weather permitted, we fixed five pitches to the prominent second arch, taking two days.

If we could get a total of 320 meters of rope fixed, it would be no problem to get to the first bivy spot, or higher, once we committed to the route.The weather had something else in mind. We had 5 Sterling Ropes with us. It stands to the west of Mount McKinley within a rugged complex of glacier and granite known as the Cathedral Spires of the Kichatna Mountains. Nine days of stormy weather to be exact. Golden, CO 80401. There is no limit to what the human spirit can aspire for!The East Buttress of Middle Triple Peak has been on our mind for a while.

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